Guide to the Black Sea Highlands: 40 Must-See Highlands and Transportation Information

I first went to the Black Sea in the summer of 2016, crammed into the back seat of a minibus going from Ardeşen to Çamlıhemşin. When I looked out the window and asked, "Is it always this green here?", the man next to me laughed and said, "It's more beautiful up there, it's further down." I remembered that sentence countless times over the next nine years. Because in the Black Sea region, there's always something higher up.

Since then Rize, Trabzon, Artvin, Giresun, exploring, Gumushane and the West Black Sea I've climbed to over forty plateaus along this route in total. Some by car, some by minibus, and a few on foot. I stayed three nights at some, and at others I only stayed for two hours before returning. This guide is a compilation of those notes. I wanted it to be different from the "Top 10 Plateaus of the Black Sea" lists circulating on the internet, because the roads themselves tell the story of how many of the people who wrote those lists never actually traveled those routes.

Below you will find 40 plateaus, listed by province, along with transportation information. I've given approximate distances because in the Black Sea region, hours matter, not kilometers. A 20-kilometer journey can take an hour and a half.

When is the best time to visit the Black Sea Highlands?

There is no single right answer to this question, but there are wrong answers.

Mid-June to early September is the classic highland season. Roads are open, campsites are full, and festivals take place during this time. However, the second half of July and the first week of August, especially in centers like Ayder and Uzungöl, become incredibly crowded.

My preference is the last ten days of June. The snowmelt is still flowing, the meadow flowers are in bloom, the pastures have just opened, and the crowds haven't started yet. The first half of September is also nice, but the highlands start to empty, and many summer houses close.

May and October are risky months. Snow cover in the high plateaus can last until the end of May. In October, visibility is severely reduced due to fog and precipitation. On one occasion when I tried to climb Kavrun in early October, I had to turn back three kilometers before reaching the top. A shepherd I met that day told me, "The weather has turned bad up there, you should come down," which was one of the most accurate pieces of advice I've ever heard.

During the winter months, only areas with infrastructure, such as Ayder, Zigana, Ilgaz, and Kartalkaya, are accessible. Most others are completely closed.

Let me add a separate point about fog. In the Black Sea highlands, it's generally clear between 7:00 AM and 10:00 AM. From 2:00 PM onwards, fog sets in and doesn't lift until evening. If you want to take photos, get up early. I can say that in Pokut, for three consecutive afternoons, I waited for a view and each time I just looked at a white wall.

Access to the Highlands: General Notes

There are three ways to get to the Black Sea highlands, and each has its own price.

• With your own vehicle: It's the most comfortable option. However, the number of plateaus you can reach with a sedan is less than you might think. Places with paved roads like Ayder, Zigana, Çambaşı, Kümbet, Sultanmurat, and Kafkasör are fine. For places like Pokut, Sal, Gito, Kavrun, Elevit, and Arsiyan, you need a high chassis and preferably four-wheel drive. The roads are unpaved, narrow, winding, and without barriers. Don't push it if you don't feel confident.
• By shared taxi and minibus: There are regular shuttle services from the town centers to popular destinations like Ayder, Uzungöl, and Çambaşı. For other locations, there are only one or two shuttles a day during the season. Check with the bus station the day before to confirm departure times, as the times listed on the signboard change frequently.
• By local transfer: In Çamlıhemşin and Çaykara, there are local drivers with 4x4 vehicles who provide transfers to the highlands. This is the most logical solution for challenging roads like Pokut, Sal, and Hazindak. Prices vary per vehicle and seasonally, so agree on terms by phone before you go.
• Fuel warning: There are no gas stations from Çamlıhemşin to Elevit. The same applies to the routes from Şavşat to Arsiyan and from Tonya to Kadırga. Fill up your tank in the town center.
• The phone has no signal. Take this seriously. In most of the high plateaus, there's only signal in certain spots and only with one operator. Tell someone your location.

Rize Highlands

Rize deserves to be the first province that comes to mind when you think of plateaus. The high concentration of plateaus is particularly noticeable on the northern slopes of the Kaçkar Mountains. Turkey'It's not available anywhere else.'

Ayder Plateau

It's become difficult to love Ayder. The Ayder of ten years ago is not the same place it is today, and I write this with sadness. Concrete construction, the disarray around the hot springs, and the crowds in the summer months overshadow the famous waterfall view. Nevertheless, it remains an indispensable starting point, as the roads to Kavrun, Huser, and Yukarı Kavrun pass through here.

Try the hot springs; the water is really good. If you walk for twenty minutes towards Huser, at the top of the plateau, you can escape the crowds and see the real view.

Transportation: The coastal road from Rize city center to Ardeşen is approximately 80 km, from Ardeşen to Çamlıhemşin is 22 km, and from Çamlıhemşin to Ayder is 17 km. The road is fully paved and accessible by any vehicle. There are regular minibuses from Ardeşen and Çamlıhemşin. The altitude is 1350 meters.

Pokut Plateau

This is where the postcard-perfect Black Sea photograph comes from. That image, where wooden granaries stand above a sea of ​​clouds, is mostly taken from Pokut and is truly as impressive as described. But be aware: your chances of seeing the view are around fifty percent. If the fog doesn't lift, you won't be able to see three meters ahead.

I recommend staying in Pokut. Waking up at five in the morning, sitting in front of the serender (a traditional wooden granary), and watching the clouds move below is my strongest recommendation in this guide.

Transportation: It's about 20 km from Çamlıhemşin, via Şenyuva village. The first half of the road is asphalt, the rest is gravel and quite narrow. Some people drive sedans, but I wouldn't recommend it. 4x4 transfers are available from Çamlıhemşin. Altitude: 1900 meters.

Sal Plateau

Pokut's neighbor, and to be honest, it's just as scenic. It's also far less crowded. The trail from Pokut to Sal takes about two hours and is one of the best short backpacking hikes. I've done this trail three times, and the weather has never been the same.

Transportation: The continuation of the road from Çamlıhemşin to Pokut is approximately 25 km. The road is unpaved. Driving up to Pokut and then walking from there is the most enjoyable option. The altitude is 1800 meters.

Gito Plateau

Gito, Pokut, and Sal can be considered three stops on the same route. Gito differs in that its meadows are wider and more open. A sea of ​​clouds forms here too, but there isn't the dramatic cliff edge like in Pokut; the view is gentler. Ideal for camping.

Transportation: The road is unpaved, approximately 30 km from Çamlıhemşin, starting from the Gito junction. A high-chassis vehicle is required. Altitude 2000 meters.

Hazindak Plateau

It's little-known, and precisely because of that, it's precious. The day I went up to Hazindak, there were a total of seven of us on the plateau, and five of them were locals. The serender architecture isn't as well-maintained as in Pokut, but its authenticity is higher.

Transportation: The route is approximately 22 km from the side road branching off from the Çamlıhemşin-Şenyuva line. The road is challenging; a 4x4 is absolutely necessary. The altitude is 1750 meters.

Elevit Plateau

Elevit is one of the most established plateaus in the Kaçkar region. It has a market, a mosque, and a well-organized settlement structure. So it gives you the feeling of a mountain village rather than the romanticism of a typical plateau. It's used as a base camp by those preparing for Kaçkar summit climbs.

The valley on your right along the road from Elevit to Tirovit is one of the most beautiful views I've seen in Rize.

Transportation: It's about 40 km from Çamlıhemşin. Most of the road is paved, the final section is gravel. It's passable with a normal vehicle, but careful driving is required. Minibuses are available from Çamlıhemşin during the season. The altitude is 1800 meters.

Kavrun Plateau

This is the point you reach when you continue upwards from Ayder. It's the classic starting point for the Kaçkar Mountain climbs. Electricity is limited on the plateau, accommodation is simple, but the view is worth it. As you walk towards Yukarı Kavrun, the trails leading to the glacial lakes begin.

Transportation: The road from Ayder is approximately 15 km of unpaved. A 4x4 vehicle is required; it's possible to find transportation from Ayder. The altitude is 2100 meters.

Amlakit Plateau

Located between Elevit and Palovit, this plateau is notable for its wide meadows. The distance between the plateau houses is considerable, so there's no feeling of crowds. For those who enjoy hiking, there are numerous routes centered around Amlakit.

Transportation: Turning off the Elevit road, approximately 8 km. Stabilized, high chassis required. Altitude 2000 meters.

Handüzü Plateau

In my opinion, this is the most beautiful plateau on the İkizdere side. The stream running through it, the wide plains surrounding it, and the sharp hills rising in the background create a completely different composition. It's quite different visually from the plateaus on the Çamlıhemşin line.

Transportation: It's approximately 30 km from the town of İkizdere. The road is largely asphalted, with the final section being gravel. It's accessible by a standard vehicle. The altitude is 2000 meters.

Anzer Plateau

This is where one of the world's most expensive honeys is produced. The main reason to go to Anzer isn't the scenery, but the hundreds of endemic flower species that bloom on those meadows. When you go at the end of June, the scent of the plateau is completely different.

If you're going to buy honey, buy it directly from the producer and expect the price to be higher. The vast majority of products sold under the name "Anzer honey" are not actually Anzer honey.

Transportation: The road from İkizdere is approximately 30 km long, a mix of asphalt and gravel. The altitude is 2000 meters.

Trabzon Plateaus

The plateaus of Trabzon are more open, more grassy, ​​and generally easier to access than those of Rize. Instead of traditional serender architecture, stone and wood mixed plateau houses are dominant.

Sultanmurat Plateau

This plateau beyond Çaykara ranks high on the list for both its history and scenery. The transition from the spruce forest to a wide plain is impressive. The martyrs' memorial area and the surrounding pine forest look completely different in the morning mist.

Transportation: It's approximately 30 km from Çaykara and 110 km from Trabzon city center. The road is paved, accessible by any vehicle. The altitude is 2000 meters.

12. Hıdırnebi Plateau

This is the closest and most significant plateau to Trabzon city center. Ideal for a day trip. The Hıdırnebi festival, held in July, is one of the liveliest events in the region. If you want to go on the day of the festival, leave early, as the road becomes congested with traffic.

Transportation: It's approximately 35 km from Akçaabat. The road is paved. The altitude is 1600 meters.

Sholma Plateau

Hıdırnebi is a neighbor, but its character is different. It's quieter, less built-up. Walking along the paths between the plateau houses is one of the rare experiences in Trabzon where you can still capture the old plateau feel.

Transportation: Approximately 40 km from Akçaabat. The final section of the road is unpaved. Altitude 1800 meters.

Kadirga Plateau

The true significance of Kadırga is revealed during the festival held in the third week of July. This festival, established at the meeting point of Trabzon, Giresun, and Gümüşhane, is a must-see for those who want to witness the continuation of highland culture. On days outside of the festival, the plateau is quite quiet.

Transportation: Approximately 50 km via Şalpazarı or Tonya. Mainly stabilized road, high chassis preferred. Altitude 2200 meters.

Erikbeli Plateau

Located on the road from Tonya to Kadırga, it gets its name from the wild plum trees surrounding it. It's worth stopping for the mountain cheese and butter sold at the roadside stalls. Don't buy the cheese without tasting it first, as the quality varies greatly.

Transportation: It's approximately 25 km from Tonya. The road is a mix of asphalt and gravel. The altitude is 1700 meters.

Zigana Plateau

This plateau lies in the pass between Trabzon and Gümüşhane. It is one of the few Black Sea plateaus with winter tourism infrastructure. It also remains open and easily accessible during the summer months. While its scenery may not be as stunning as others, its accessibility is undeniable.

Transportation: Approximately 35 km from Maçka, 65 km from Trabzon city center. Located on a fully paved state road. Altitude 2000 meters.

Demirkapı Plateau

The hidden treasure behind Uzungöl. Perhaps one percent of the millions of visitors to Uzungöl come here. Glacial lakes, steep cliffs, and almost no construction. A place to make up for those disappointed by Uzungöl.

Transportation: Approximately 20 km of the road from Uzungöl is unpaved. A 4x4 vehicle is required. Altitude 2400 meters.

Lisher Plateau

One of the tranquil highlands of the Tonya region. With its vast pastures and scattered settlements, it should be on the list of those who want to get away from the crowds. In the summer months, it is still a true highland area where the local people take their animals.

Transportation: Approximately 30 km from Tonya. Stabilized road. Altitude 1900 meters.

Giresun Highlands

The Giresun highlands have always seemed to me like an underappreciated region. They remain in the shadow of Trabzon and Rize, but the quality of the scenery is by no means inferior.

Kumbet Plateau

It's the best-known place in Giresun. The Kümbet festival, held in July, and the wide plain in the middle of the plateau have made the area a center for plateau tourism. It has the most developed accommodation infrastructure in Giresun.

Transportation: It's approximately 60 km from Giresun city center via Dereli. The road is paved. The altitude is 1650 meters.

Bektas Plateau

It's higher and more open than Kümbet. Because you're above the tree line, the view is 360 degrees. In my opinion, this is the best spot in Giresun to watch the sunset. It gets seriously cool in the evening, so bring a jacket even in the middle of summer.

Transportation: Approximately 60 km via Dereli. The final section of the road is unpaved. Altitude 2000 meters.

Sis Mountain Plateau

As the name suggests, being enveloped in fog on Sis Dağı (Fog Mountain) is no surprise, it's part of the plan. The gentle hills and pastures of the plateau truly feel like another planet when the fog descends. Access is via Yağlıdere and Espiye.

Transportation: Approximately 45 km from Espiye. Mixed asphalt and gravel road. Altitude 2000 meters.

Kulakkaya Plateau

The closest plateau to Giresun city center, ideal for a day trip. Its location within a pine forest sets it apart; it has the character of a forest plateau, not just a bare meadow.

Transportation: Approximately 45 km from Giresun city center. The road is paved. Altitude 1500 meters.

Tamdere Plateau

A plateau where skiing is possible in winter and which is quiet in summer. Accommodation options are limited but available. It can be used as a starting point for hikes in the Karagöl Mountains.

Transportation: It's approximately 55 km from Dereli. The road is mostly asphalt. The altitude is 1900 meters.

Ordu Highlands

Çambaşı Plateau

Ordu's showcase plateau deserves it. With its wide plains, ski resort infrastructure, and well-organized transportation, it's one of the most convenient plateaus for families to visit. There are plenty of plateau houses and bungalow options. In the summer months, cycling and nature walking routes are marked.

Transportation: It's approximately 60 km from Ordu city center via Kabadüz. The road is fully paved. The altitude is 1850 meters.

Thursday Plateau

This plateau above Aybastı boasts the most unique landscape in Ordu. Its wide, crater-like depression and the surrounding hills set it apart visually from other Black Sea plateaus. Its July festival is one of the oldest in the region.

Note: Do not confuse this with Perşembe district on the coast of Ordu; they are completely different places and more than one hundred kilometers apart. Type "Perşembe Yaylası Aybastı" into your navigation system.

Transportation: It's approximately 15 km from Aybastı and 110 km from Ordu city center. The road is paved. The altitude is 1600 meters.

Keyfalan Plateau

Located in the Gölköy area, it's a tranquil plateau that lives up to its name. It has low visitor numbers and a high level of authenticity. Traditional transhumance is still practiced in the surrounding villages.

Transportation: Approximately 25 km from Gölköy. Mainly gravel road. Altitude 1700 meters.

Argin Plateau

Located near Gürgentepe, at the point where forest and meadow meet. It is one of Ordu's lesser-known plateaus, but its number of visitors has increased in recent years due to improved road conditions.

Transportation: Approximately 20 km from Gürgentepe. Altitude 1500 meters.

Artvin Highlands

Artvin is, in my opinion, the least spoiled part of the Black Sea highlands. As you get closer to the Caucasus, the landscape changes character.

Kafkasör Plateau

It's just a few kilometers from Artvin city center. The Kafkasör Culture and Arts Festival and bullfighting events in early August are the region's best-known activities. Outside of the festival, it's a peaceful forest plateau.

Transportation: It's approximately 8 km from Artvin city center. The road is paved. The altitude is 1300 meters.

Bilbilan Plateau

Located on the vast plateau between Ardanuç and Şavşat, Bilbilan's meadows transform into a veritable sea of ​​flowers by the end of June. Its festival in July is one of the liveliest in the region.

Transportation: Approximately 40 km from Şavşat or Ardanuç. Mostly stabilized road. Altitude 2200 meters.

Karagöl Plateau (Şavşat)

Karagöl is a lake and surrounding plateau within the Sahara National Park. The spruce forest surrounding the lake and its reflections on the water make it one of the most photographed scenes in Artvin. There is an entrance fee as it is located within the national park.

Transportation: It's approximately 25 km from Şavşat. The final section of the road is unpaved. The altitude is 1500 meters.

Arsiyan Plateau

The lake region in the highlands of Şavşat. The road you take to reach Arsiyan is one of the most challenging in this guide, but in return you get some of Türkiye's most untouched plateau scenery. Glacial lakes, plateau houses, and in the background... Georgia limit.

Transportation: It's about 45 km from Şavşat. Definitely get a 4x4. I recommend hiring a local guide. Altitude 2400 meters.

Gümüşhane Plateaus

Kazikbeli Plateau

This plateau in the highlands of Kürtün is known for its wrestling and festival traditions in July. Being in the interior of the Black Sea region, there is less fog and the sky is clearer. It is one of the best spots in the region for star photography.

Transportation: Approximately 40 km from Kürtün, 90 km from Gümüşhane city center. Predominantly stabilized road. Altitude 2200 meters.

Güvende Plateau

This is one of the tranquil plateaus surrounding Torul. With its location surrounded by forest and its few plateau houses, it is ideal for those who truly want to retreat into solitude.

Transportation: Approximately 30 km from Torul. Stabilized road. Altitude 1900 meters.

Tasköprü Plateau

It is located in the Kürtün region, on the road leading to Kazıkbeli. It takes its name from the old stone bridge at the entrance to the plateau. The traditional architecture among the plateau houses has been preserved.

Transportation: Approximately 30 km from Kürtün. Altitude 1800 meters.

Samsun Plateaus

Akdağ Plateau (Ladik)

Akdağ, located above Ladik, serves as both a ski resort and a summer summer plateau. Its proximity to Samsun makes it possible to visit for a day trip. The scenery isn't as dramatic as in the Eastern Black Sea region, but ease of access is an advantage.

Transportation: Approximately 20 km from Ladik, Samsun 90 km from the city center. The road is paved. Altitude 1800 meters.

Kunduz Plateau

The vast forest plateau above Vezirköprü is located within the Kunduz Forests and boasts one of the richest vegetation types in the western Black Sea region. There are suitable areas for camping.

Transportation: It's approximately 30 km from Vezirköprü. Part of the road is unpaved. The altitude is 1300 meters.

Western Black Sea Plateaus

This region is always forgotten, though. Istanbul And for those departing from Ankara, the distance advantage is enormous.

Uluyayla (Bartın)

Bart Kastamonu Located on the border, above Ulus, it is the most well-known plateau of the Western Black Sea region with its wide meadows, surrounding fir forests, and cool air. Its proximity to the Küre Mountains National Park is an added advantage.

Transportation: It's approximately 40 km from Ulus and 90 km from Bartın city center. The road is a mix of asphalt and gravel. The altitude is 1400 meters.

38. Bozarmut Plateau (Sinop)

This plateau above Ayancık reveals the mountainous side of Sinop. The existence of such a plateau in Sinop, known as a coastal city, surprises many visitors. There are waterfalls and hiking trails around it.

Transportation: Approximately 35 km from Ayancık. Mainly gravel road. Altitude 1300 meters.

Ilgaz Plateaus (Kastamonu)

The plateaus around Ilgaz Mountain are used for skiing in winter and hiking in summer. Thanks to its national park status, nature is protected. It is the most easily accessible plateau region for those coming from Ankara.

Transportation: It's approximately 45 km from Kastamonu city center and 250 km from Ankara. The road is fully paved. The altitude is 1800 meters.

Kardüz Plateau (Düzce)

The Yığılca and Kardüz route is one of the greenest routes that can be completed in a single day from Istanbul. The plateau's landscape isn't as high-mountained as the Eastern Black Sea region, but the forest density is surprisingly strong.

Transportation: Düzce Approximately 60 km from the city center. The final section of the road is unpaved. Altitude 1400 meters.

Highland Accommodation: Set Your Expectations Correctly

The most common disappointment I encounter regarding mountain resort accommodations stems from people expecting hotel-level comfort.

• Mountain houses and bungalows have increased in recent years. Wooden bungalow options can be found around Pokut, Gito, Ayder, and Çambaşı. However, hot water is sometimes limited, heating is via stoves or electricity, and internet is often unavailable.
• Guesthouses are generally part of family-run houses. Breakfast is included, and these breakfasts are the best part of the plateau. Butter made from their own cows' milk, flatbread made from their own corn, and fresh minci cheese. It's worth setting aside a separate day for this.
• Camping is allowed in many highlands, but first ask who owns the land. In the Black Sea region, all meadows have owners. Almost no one says no when you ask for permission; in fact, you're often invited for tea.
• Reservations are essential during the summer months. Finding availability is especially difficult during festival weeks and the first half of August.

Practical Notes

• Clothes: Even in mid-summer, temperatures can drop to 8 degrees Celsius at night. A fleece jacket and windbreaker are essential. A raincoat is also necessary, because it can start raining at any moment in the Black Sea region, and an umbrella is useless in the wind.
• Shoe: The meadow is often wet. Don't attempt a hike without waterproof trekking shoes.
• Fly: Mosquitoes and horseflies cause a serious nuisance, especially in the evenings during July and August. Bring repellent.
• Necklaces: POS terminals are mostly unavailable in the highlands, and ATMs are practically nonexistent. Withdraw cash in the town center.
• Road priorities: On narrow mountain roads, vehicles going uphill have priority. It's not a written rule, but everyone in the region follows it. Don't be the only one who doesn't.
• Environment: Waste collection services are limited in the highlands. Take everything you bring back with you. This may sound like a cliché, but after seeing the piles of plastic waste in Bektaş and Sis Mountain, I feel it necessary to write it again.

Frequently Asked Questions

• Is it possible to drive a sedan up to the Black Sea highlands? For some of them, yes. Ayder, Zigana, Çambaşı, Kümbet, Sultanmurat, Hıdırnebi, Perşembe, Ilgaz, and Kafkasör are accessible via asphalt roads. For Pokut, Sal, Gito, Kavrun, Arsiyan, Demirkapı, and Hazindak, a high-chassis vehicle is required.
• How many days should I set aside? For the Rize leg alone, at least three days. If you want to visit Rize and Trabzon together, five days. If you add Artvin, a week. Short distances take a long time in the Black Sea region, so plan your itinerary accordingly.
• Which plateau is the least crowded? Hazindak, Lişer, Keyfalan, Arsiyan, and Bozarmut. In these five, you can find silence even in the middle of summer.
• Which mountain resort is most suitable for families with children? Çambaşı and Kümbet. The road is easy, accommodation is well-organized, and the flat areas are extensive.
• What are my chances of seeing a sea of ​​clouds? In Pokut, Sal, and Gito, the chances are high in the early morning hours. However, there's no guarantee. If you plan to climb the same plateau two days in a row, your chances increase significantly.
• What is the festival calendar like in the highlands? Most festivals are held in July and August. Kadırga, Kümbet, Hıdırnebi, Bilbilan, Perşembe, and Kafkasör are the best known. Since the dates can change every year, it's a good idea to confirm with the district municipality before you go.

The Black Sea Highlands Await You

The most challenging aspect of preparing this guide was ranking the locations. Because in the Black Sea highlands, there's no such thing as "the most beautiful," only "the day the weather is clear." The same highland can be two different places on two different days.

I can tell you this: If it's your first time, start from the Çamlıhemşin line. Stay a night in Pokut, wake up at five in the morning, and sit on the wooden steps in front of the granary. Watch the opposite slope slowly emerge as the clouds pass beneath your feet. After experiencing that moment, you will see the remaining thirty-nine plateaus; I don't decide that, the journey decides.

Pack your bags, stock up your tanks, and head up. There's always something higher to go in the Black Sea region.